Let's Discuss - Fluorocarbon Pike

Lonnie (CA)'s Profile > Stories > Let's Discuss - Fluorocarbon Pike

Let's Discuss - Fluorocarbon Pike

Posted Nov 24, 2008 by Lonnie (CA)

Rating : 5.0 / 5

Rate this:

Views: 930

Pike Insurance – The Fluorocarbon Advantage by Lonnie King

Here are a few well researched perspectives from one serious angler to another, intended to generate some discussion for Bountyfishing members. If you fish in areas that hold pike, then you have either given some thought to what kinds of leaders to use, or you have invariable lost tackle because you haven`t. Wire leaders can be frustrating to fish with, because they invariably get kinked, add weight to your presentation and can be distracting to fish. Single strand Titanium wire is much better because it resists kinking and is much thinner than comparable multi-stand coated wire.

A third material, which I tend to use more than any other is heavy floroucarbon. Floroucarbon is relatively inexpensive, easy to work with and is much less visible than wire. Virtually any time I tie on a lure that I don`t want to loose, I`ll have a floroucarbon leader attached.

When icefishing for panfish I`ll use 40 lb test,
When casting for walleyes I`ll use 60 lb test, and
When casting specifically for BIG pike or muskies I`ll use 80 to 120 lb test.

The difference in the weight of the leader has less to do with the size of fish you catch, as it does the pressure you apply to the leader-tooth interface. When icefishing drags tend to be quite light as compared to the power exerted with heavy pike and musky gear.

I`ve used Maxima Fluorocarbon almost exclusively over the past 2 or 3 years, and it`s nothing short of amazing in my opinion. Heavy fluorocarbon can be tough to tie, but I`ve penultimately settled on using a loop knot to allow the swivel and snap some freedom of movement. My snap of choice is made by Stringease. They slip on and off this type of leader easily, so I carry a range of sizes to suit my presentation.

Have some thoughts on the subject? Share your perspectives with others by adding comments below.

http://www.bountyfishing.com/members/fe9fc289c3ff0af142b6d3bead98a923/photo/b53b
n3a3d6ab90ce0268229151c9bde11/640x480/fluorocarbon1.jpg

http://www.bountyfishing.com/members/fe9fc289c3ff0af142b6d3bead98a923/photo/b53b
n3a3d6ab90ce0268229151c9bde11/640x480/fluorocarbon2.jpg

(10 comments)

AdamCox (posted Dec 2, 2008)
Makes cents, many of the waters I frequent have low numbers of pike, so I don't have to worry about bite offs. I guess I'm just spoiled with the Lake Winnipeg water system :)

Lonnie (posted Nov 29, 2008)

I'm only fishing fluoro when I'm fishing lures I don't want bitten off - i.e. my jigging raps, spoons, cubby darters etc.. when icefishing the fish tend to come up from below so missing fish hasn't been a problem. On my Vexilar I'll often see panfish move in and not go for the hardware, then I'll drop in a small jig or Genz worm, and this won't have fluoro on it. I'm not a concerned to have a jig snipped off as I am othe baits. cheers, LK

AdamCox (posted Nov 28, 2008)
Even with the loop knot don't you lose sensitivity with such thick lines? Maybe I'm thinking about it the wrong way... the fluoro probably sinks your lure faster while jigging for panfish.

CortezFisherman (posted Nov 28, 2008)
Although a saltwater guy the key to Fluorocarbon is its stealth ability. I have found over the years that I catch much more fish with Fluorocarbon leaders. I use 30# for most inshore applications. The most important thing to remember with Fluorocarbon is if it gets nicked or chaffed you need to replace it.

Lonnie (posted Nov 27, 2008)
Any less and pike will bite through it. That's why you need a loop knot on the leader, so it allows the lure to swing freely. Of course these are just my personal preferences - I would expect everyone will have a slightly different application, but these threads are after all about sharing ideas. Thanks for the input. Cheers, LK

AdamCox (posted Nov 26, 2008)
#40 for panfish and #60 for walleye? explain yourself :P I can't even see that working??? I use fluoro all the time! I would say #20 max for casting for walleye, and #6 max for jigging for panfish, atleast thats what works for me in MB. To each there own. Line strengths aside one thing is forsure fluoro rocks!

Lonnie (posted Nov 26, 2008)

Fluoro is pretty thick and stiff - so I don't know if the heavier tests would work for drop shooting - In the past I used wire leaders but they kink so easily - then I tried Titanium leaders - much better than stainless steel but still occassionally kink and are pretty expensive - Over the last few years Fluorocarbon has replaced most of the leaders I use for pike - I still use some wire for musky applications. cheers, LK

FISHINMA (posted Nov 25, 2008)

Lonnie I use steel leader with Tiger's works okay... I'll have to try your way. The thing that happens to me at that Musky hole is when I drop shot for Bass with 12llb mono Tigers hit that Palimor and snap it. I wished there was a way to drop shot for Musky with my Bass presentation. Wonder if Fluro would work?? I like to bump the bottom with the weight and have shad a few feet up. Any suggestions? Smiles!! MA

Lonnie (posted Nov 25, 2008)
Agreed - 120 lb test I just buy them - I think you would need a machine to pull the knot tight enough - Stringease makes some nice fluorocarbon leaders. I don't have any trouble tying knots in 80 lb and less but you do need pliers .... and the right knot. Cheers, LK

freshwaterphi (posted Nov 24, 2008)

Not much of a fluro fan myself, I find it hard to work with. Very cumbersome, I don't know how you manage with 100+ lb test. I have some pretied 60 lb and 120 lb musky leaders, too long to cast, kills the action on my 4-6 inch pike lures even when trolling. I use plain old steel leaders, they seem to work well when ripping the lures, you kind of force the pike to decide quickly. They don't seem to affect live bait in murky or deep, dark water, but I found that they can affect live bait in extra clear water like Lake St Francis.